HOW TO REMOVE OR RESET ALL WINDOWS PASSWORD

HOW TO REMOVE OR RESET ALL WINDOWS PASSWORDS YOU ASK?? 

Well many of us if not all of us have at one time or another had to face with the really frustrating option of either loosing the admin password or just being on a cmputer where the admin has locked everything with a password and yes that really sucks. 

but now come to think of it if we knew where windows stores its passwords then it would be easy to bypass the password request for loging in to admin whether on a personal computer or on a school,work etc. computer. good thing is we know and so a very genius company called HIREN  CAME UP WITH A BOOTABLE CD that can help you do just that...delete the password file and leave the admin open or iven change it if its on your own computer. i will guide you on a step by step course of how we do that.

you might need

1. RUFUS BOOTABLE FLASH DRIVE MAKER FROM HERE

you definitely need:

1. HIRENS BOOT CD[IMAGE FROM HERE]

Use the rufus software to make a bootable flash drive of the  hirens image if you will not be using it on burned iso disk

Tested on: NT 3.51, NT 4 (all versions and SPs), Windows 2000 (all versions & SPs), Windows XP (all versions, also SP2 and SP3), Windows Server 2003 (all SPs), Windows Vista 32 and 64 bit (SP1 also), Window 7 (all variants). Some also say that it works on Windows Server 2008 too.
If used on users that have EFS encrypted files, and the system is XP or Vista, all encrypted files for that user will be UNREADABLE! and cannot be recovered unless you remember the old password again. If you don't know if you have encrypted files or not, you most likely don't have them (except maybe on corporate systems).

Boot your computer with Hiren's BootCD and follow the steps below for resetting your password:

1. Enter "Offline NT/2000/XP/Vista/7 Password Changer"

With Up & Down keys select Offline 'NT/2000/XP/Vista/7 Password Changer' and press Enter.

2. Wait for "Offline NT Password & Registry Editor" to Load

On the screen below, you'll see is several lines of text that quickly run down the screen. You don't need to do anything here. Wait for "Offline NT Password & Registry Editor" to load.

1. Select "NT/2000/XP/Vista/7 Password Changer"

2. Linux files are loading...

3. Choose the Correct Hard Drive Partition

This step in the Offline NT Password & Registry Editor process is to select the partition that contains the Windows installation that you want to delete a password from.
Many computers have a single operating system installed on a single partition on a single hard drive, making this a very easy choice.
If that's the case for you, just press ENTER to accept the default partition. Otherwise, type the number corresponding to the correct partition from the Candidate Windows partitions found list and then press ENTER.

If more than one partition is listed and you're not sure which one to pick, chances are the larger partition is the one with Windows installed.

Every Windows 7 PC will have more than one partition listed.

4. Confirm the Windows Registry Path

Offline NT Password & Registry Editor now needs to know the exact location of the Windows Registry. Except in the rarest of occasions, the default location will be the correct one.
Just Press ENTER to accept the default Windows Registry path without writing anything else.

3. Choose the Correct Hard Drive Partition

4. Confirm the Windows Registry Path

5. Choose the Password Reset Option

Offline NT Password & Registry Editor is now asking which part of the registry it should load.
Press ENTER to accept the default choice of Password reset.

The Offline NT Password & Registry Editor tool can perform various functions aside from resetting passwords but since that's the focus of this particular walkthrough, that's all we'll discuss.

6. Choose the Edit User Data and Passwords Option

Now that the registry is loaded and available to the program, Offline NT Password & Registry Editor needs to know exactly what you want to do.
Press ENTER to accept the default choice of Edit user data and passwords.
This will load the necessary options for the actual password reset.

5. Choose the Password Reset Option

6. Choose the Edit User Data and Passwords Option

7. Enter the Username to Edit

Offline NT Password & Registry Editor now needs to know which user's password you'd like to delete (erase, clear, blank, remove, call it what you like).
A default user is listed between the brackets at the prompt. In the above example, you can see that it's the Administrator user.
If the default user is the user you'd like to remove the password from, simply press ENTER. Otherwise, enter the username and then press ENTER.

8. Type 1 to Clear (blank) user password and then press ENTER

At the bottom of the screen you'll see the User Edit Menu with several options to choose from.
Type 1 for Clear (blank) user password and then press ENTER.

Offline NT Password & Registry Editor shows some interesting information about the username you entered in the last step - the full name, what groups the user belongs to, how many failed login attempts have taken place, how many total logins have been completed, and more.

If you see a check in the "Passwd not req." box, this means that a password is not a requirement for this particular user. It does not mean that a password is not required to access the account in Windows. In other words, it's saying that it is possible to erase this user's password.

7. Enter the Username to Edit

8. Type 1 to Clear (blank) user password and then press ENTER

9. Type ! to quit the User Edit Tool

Assuming there weren't any problems, you should see a Password cleared! message after entering 1 in the previous step.
Type ! to quit editing user and then press ENTER.

You must confirm these changes in a later step before they are actually complete. If you quit Offline NT Password & Registry Editor now then the password reset will not take place!

10. Type q to Quit Offline NT Password & Registry Editor

Enter q and then press ENTER to quit the Offline NT Password & Registry Editor registry editing tool.
Important: You're still not done! You need to confirm your password reset change in the next step before it will take effect.

9. Type ! to quit the User Edit Tool

10. Type q to Quit Offline NT Password & Registry Editor

11. Type y and then press ENTER to confirm Password Reset Changes

At the Step FOUR: Writing back changes menu, Offline NT Password & Registry Editor asks if you want to write file(s) back.
Type y and then press ENTER.
You should see an EDIT COMPLETE message appear on screen. If you do, it means that Offline NT Password & Registry Editor has written the password changes to your computer!

12. Confirm That You're Finished Using Offline NT Password & Registry Editor

Offline NT Password & Registry Editor gives you an option here to rerun the program. If you've been following along with this guide and everything seems to have worked properly then there's little reason to repeat anything.
Press ENTER to confirm the default option of not rerunning the password reset.

11. Type y and then press ENTER to confirm Password Reset Changes

12. Press ENTER to Confirm That You're Finished Using Offline NT Password & Registry Editor

13. Remove Hiren's BootCD and Restart the Computer

That's it! You've just completed the entire Offline NT Password & Registry Editor password removal process.

13. Remove Hiren's BootCD and Restart the Computer

Note: If you receive a "job control turned off" or a "can't access tty" error, don't worry. As long as the EDIT COMPLETE confirmation message was posted to the screen after you confirmed the password reset changes then your password was successfully reset. You should still be able to see the confirmation on the screen at this point.
Remove Hiren's BootCD from your CD/DVD drive and then manually reset your computer.
In the next step, you'll finally get to logon to Windows without entering a password!
Now that your password has been removed using Offline NT Password & Registry Editor, no password is required to log on to Windows.
If you are the only user on your computer, Windows will boot all the way to the desktop on the next reboot and will skip the logon screen altogether.
If you're on a multi-user computer (as many families are), the logon screen will still appear after starting Windows but when you click on the user that had the password removed, you will not be prompted for a password and will instead enter Windows automatically.
Having a secure password is important so please don't continue to use Windows without one. As soon as you've gained access to your computer again, configure a new password - one you can remember a little easier!

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HOW TO HACK WIFI PASSWORDS LIKE A PRO-THE ONLY REAL WAY

How to Crack Wi-Fi Passwords—For Beginners!

 

Yeah yeah people keep asking this question over and over and am tired of being asked the same myself... if you are wondering what am talking about then you should read the tittle of this post.so anyway I wanted to lay it to rest once and for all, there are no "tools" that can single handedly hack, crack Wi-Fi passwords within a few minutes like these tools you find on Google searches seem to insinuate. all of those crap tools are genius works of hackers like me who have come to know that people are so ignorant that they are willing to destroy their own devices[computers and smartphones], just to feel like hackers. these people probably don’t want to know the geeky stuff that happens during hacking and are therefore very satisfied if you make a silly program that pretends to be really working hard to crack your victims password while all its really doing is installing Trojans in the background that will allow now the real hacker to access your computer and probably gain a lot of confidential info from you.

Anyway all I mean to say is that there is only one way to crack Wi-Fi passwords and it’s not the least bit easy so here is a detailed tutorial on all the procedure you will need.


An internet connection has become a basic necessity in our modern lives. Wireless hotspots (commonly known as Wi-Fi) can be found everywhere!


If you have a PC with a wireless network card, then you must have seen many networks around you. Sadly most of these networks are secured with a network security key.


Have you ever wanted to use one of these networks? You must have desperately wanted to check your mail when you shifted to your new house. The hardest time in your life is when your internet connection is down.


Cracking those Wi-Fi passwords is your answer to temporary internet access. This is a comprehensive guide which will teach even complete beginners how to crack WEP encrypted networks, easily.


If it's WPA2-PSK passwords you need to crack, you can use aircrack-ng or coWPAtty.
Table of Contents









1. How are wireless networks secured?


2. What you'll need


3. Setting up CommView for Wi-Fi


4. Selecting the target network and capturing packets


5. Waiting...


6. Now the interesting part... CRACKING!


7. Are you a visual learner?
Step 1: How Are Wireless Networks Secured?



In a secured wireless connection, internet data is sent in the form of encrypted packets. These packets are encrypted with network security keys. If you somehow manage to get hold of the key for a particular wireless network you virtually have access to the wireless internet connection.


Broadly speaking, there are two main types of encryptions used.
WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy)



This is the most basic form of encryption. This has become an unsafe option as it is vulnerable and can be cracked with relative ease. Although this is the case many people still use this encryption.
WPA (Wi-Fi Protected Access)



This is the more secure alternative. Efficient cracking of the passphrase of such a network requires the use of a wordlist with the common passwords. In other words you use the old-fashioned method of trial and error to gain access. Variations include WPA-2 which is the most secure encryption alternative till date. Although this can also be cracked using a wordlist if the password is common, this is virtually uncrackable with a strong password. That is, unless the WPA PIN is still enabled (as is the default on many routers).


Hacking WEP passwords is relatively fast, so we'll focus on how to crack them for this guide. If the only networks around you use WPA passwords, you'll want to follow this guide on how to crack WPA Wi-Fi passwordsinstead.
Step 2: What You'll Need



· A compatible wireless adapter:


This is by far the biggest requirement.The wireless card of your computer has to be compatible with the software CommVIew. This ensures that the wireless card can go into monitor mode which is essential for capturing packets. Click here to check if your wireless card is compatible


· CommView for Wi-Fi :


This software will be used to capture the packets from the desired network adapter. Click here to download the software from their website.


· Aircrack-ng GUI:


After capturing the packets this software does the actual cracking. Click hereto download the software from their website.


· A little patience is vital!!
Step 3: Setting Up CommView for Wi-Fi



· Download the zip file of CommView for Wi-Fi from the website. Extract the file and run setup.exe to install CommView for Wi-Fi. When CommView opens for the first time it has a driver installation guide. Follow the prompts to install the driver for your wireless card.


· Run CommView for Wi-Fi.


· Click the play icon on the top left of the application window.


Start scanning for wireless networks.


CommView now starts scanning for wireless networks channel by channel. After a few minutes you will have a long list of wireless networks with their security type and signal. Now it is time to choose your target network.
Step 4: Selecting the Target Network and Capturing Packets



A few things to keep in mind before choosing the target wireless network:


· This tutorial is only for WEP encrypted networks, so make sure you select a network with WEP next to its name. If you need to crack a WPA encrypted network, follow this tutorial instead.


· Choose a network with the highest signal.


· Each network will have its details in the right column.


· Make sure the WEP network you are choosing has the lowest dB (decibel) value.


Once you have chosen your target network, select it and click Capture to start capturing packets from the desired channel.


Now you might notice that packets are being captured from all the networks in the particular channel. To capture packets only from the desired network follow the given steps.


· Right click the desired network and click on copy MAC Address.


· Switch to the Rules tab on the top.


· On the left hand side choose MAC Addresses.


· Enable MAC Address rules.


· For 'Action' select 'capture' and for 'Add record' select 'both'.


· Now paste the mac address copied earlier in the box below.


We need to capture only data packets for cracking. So, select D on the bar at the top of the window and deselect M (Management packets) and C (Control packets).


Now you have to save the packets so that they can be cracked later. To do this:


· Go to the logging tab on top and enable auto saving.


· Set Maximum Directory Size to 2000.


· Set Average Log File Size to 20.
Step 5: Waiting...



Now the boring part- WAITING!


NOTE: The amount of time taken to capture enough data packets depends on the signal and the networks usage. The minimum number of packets you should capture should be 100,000 for a decent signal.


After you think you have enough packets (at least 100,000 packets), you'll need to export them.


· Go to the log tab and click on concatenate logs.


· Select all the logs that have been saved.


· Do not close CommView for Wi-Fi.


· Now navigate to the folder where the concatenated logs have been saved.


· Open the log file.


· Select File- Export -Wire shark tcpdump format and choose any suitable destination.


· This will save the logs with a .cap extension to that location.
Step 6: Now the Interesting Part... CRACKING!



· Download Aircrack-ng and extract the zip file.


· Open the folder and navigate to 'bin'.


· Run Aircrack-ng GUI.


· Choose WEP.


· Open your .cap file that you had saved earlier.


· Click Launch.


· In the command prompt type in the index number of your target wireless network.


· Wait for a while. If everything goes fine, the wireless key will be shown.


You may also receive a request to try with more packets. In this case wait until more packets have been captured and repeat the steps to be performed after capturing packets.


DISCLAIMER: IT IS ILLEGAL TO ACCESS OTHER PEOPLES NETWORKS WITHOUT THEIR CONSENT. THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.

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HOW TO BOOST YOUR WI-FI SIGNAL TREMENDOUSLY

Boosting your Wi-Fi range with just a homemade parabolic reflector

 

• To do this, all you need is an aluminum foil. You can finish it in less than 5 minutes and it will just cost you some cents.
• First, you must tear a cut of aluminum foil in a rectangle shape.
• After that, fold the sheet halfwise then fold each of the four sides for about 2 centimeter.
• Next, begin forming a curve into the foil.
• After that, you can now position the parabolic reflector behind the antenna of your wireless device, which should be pointed in the general direction of the wireless hub.
• Then you will see that the signal strength will be truly maximized. For best results, you can also try doing second parabolic reflector then put it next to the antenna of your wireless router then you will notice that the signal will more increase and you would be able to download files faster.
• When you fold each side of the foil this helps to straight a frame to add stability. And when you form a curve into the foil, this curve shape resembles the general shape of the parabola.
•  

Adding strength to your Wi-Fi

The man in the video used the bottom of a box and covers it with a foil. He put two holes in the lower side where he will insert the antenna of the wireless router. He puts the Wireless router with a satellite-like box covered with foil up into he’s wall. What happens after what he has done is he’s Wi-Fi strength boost up. From 48 mbps, his signal gradually increases to 54 mbps.

 

How to maximize your Wi-Fi strength by just using old can

• In doing this, you need an empty can, marker, and any tool you can use to cut the can.
• First thing you must do, is to draw a line just below the opening of the can and continue it to the sides.
• Next step is to cut the can along the line and remove the bottom.
• Then you make a hole where you will insert your antenna below the can.
• Next, you can paint the can or just cover it with foil or duct tape around the edges and on the exterior.
• Lastly, Put the finished product above your wireless router; insert the antenna in the hole you’ve made.

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HOW TO OVERCLOCK PENTIUM 4 AND CELERON CPUs

HOW DO I OVERCLOCK MY OLD INTEL CPU AND MAKE THE BEST OUT OF IT YOU ASK?

 

Why overclock an Intel PC? The hard-core tech addict answers with the classic “because it's there.” While poetic, this doesn’t do much for the IT professional who needs more justification to risk voiding a manufacturer warranty. However, the best business reason for overclocking is that it can make “obsolete” equipment useful again. This equipment is typically already out of warranty, so the risk is often minimal. For instance, overclocking the low-cost Celeron PCs you bought for backup duty will significantly boost their performance, making them faster and more productive. You can also use overclocking to test the performance of software for future hardware upgrades. To help you take advantage of your older equipment, this Drill Down will focus on why you might want to overclock Intel’s Celeron and P4 processors, and how to do it.

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Overclock at your own risk

Manufacturers may or may not honor the warranty on an overclocked CPU. It may also void the warranty on your motherboard and add-in cards. As all systems and components are different, neither TechProGuild nor the author can be held responsible for any damage caused by overclocking your computer. This information is presented for educational purposes only. Perform any modifications to your system at your own risk.

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Processor speed factors

Today’s CPUs differ from those of the past in that they include on-board cache memory. Older CPUs, like the original 486 and Pentium, had the majority of their cache memory embedded on the motherboard. Changing the way the CPU operated rarely affected the operation of the cache on the motherboard. Now, however, all processor caches are attached to the CPU. Even if the processor is able to handle a particular speed, unstable cache memory will feed it corrupt data, rendering the CPU useless.

Processor speed is based on two factors. The first is the interface between the motherboard and the Front Side Bus (FSB). The speed of the FSB reflects the amount of data that can be sent between the CPU and the other devices in the computer. On most motherboards, the FSB also determines the speed of the AGP port, the PCI bus, and the ISA bus. In general, the performance of a computer improves as the FSB speed increases.

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Intel FSB speed

The FSB on Intel processors currently ranges from 400 MHz for Celerons to 533 MHz for the Pentium 4. These are not straight clock speeds; instead they are quad-clocked speeds. These processors actually transmit data four times per clock cycle, meaning the Celerons are based on a 100-MHz clock (100 MHz x 4 = 400 MHz), while the current Pentium 4 uses a 133-MHz clock (133 x 4 = 533 MHz). There are older Pentium 4s that use the 400-MHz bus, but they are being phased out to help increase performance differences between the new Celerons and the Pentium 4.

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The other factor controlling a CPU’s speed is the clock multiplier. The clock multiplier defines the ratio of processor speed to the FSB. Prior to the Pentium II, switches on the motherboard set the clock multiplier of virtually all processors. Currently, the clock multiplier is locked at the factory.

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Intel to unlock the clock multiplier?

Intel felt it was necessary to lock the clock multiplier at the factory after having problems with ethically challenged vendors remarking the processors with higher speeds and increasing the price. Home users cried foul, but the corporate world that buys the lion’s share of computers doesn’t overclock and didn’t care. Amazingly, at the recent Intel Developers Forum, Intel discussed bringing to market an “enthusiast” grade motherboard that would allow overclocking, its first since it started locking clock multipliers.

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Check your motherboard

Before you begin the overclocking process, determine if your motherboard can overclock processors. Look in the CPU installation section in your PC’s manual. If you're lucky, you'll find either a BIOS setup menu or a set of switches or jumpers on the motherboard that control the FSB, voltage, clock, PCI/AGP, and memory bus multipliers. The only real necessity is the FSB adjustment, but without the others, your options decline significantly.

Overclocking will require your motherboard to give orders to the CPU. This is not its normal mode of operation. If you have a computer that came from a major manufacturer like IBM, it's likely that your motherboard won't provide any overclocking abilities. Even among aftermarket and consumer-level boards, overclocking opportunities aren't guaranteed.

Component capabilities

Bear in mind that if you have a processor capable of a 50 percent or more speed increase, it's unlikely that your video card or memory will enjoy running that much faster. A motherboard that can be overclocked will either provide multiple PCI/AGP and memory bus ratios or allow you to lock them at their preferred operating parameters.

Memory speed

Memory speed is often tied to the FSB, but there are boards that will lock the memory bus speed. Don’t do it if you don’t have to. Half the performance increase you may see from overclocking a CPU comes from increasing the speed at which the processor can talk to the memory. High-speed memory abounds in the market for DDR systems, which constitute the majority of computers out there. This is especially true in the case of the Celeron, since a sizeable portion of what makes it a “value” processor is the reduced memory speeds.

Power needs

You'll need to know how much power your processor uses. Just like a motor running at a higher speed, you’ll need to give your CPU more power. This is one of the “risky” aspects of overclocking. Use too much power and you could burn out your processor. A mere shift in the manufacturing process can change the operating voltage of a CPU by a significant amount, so I don't recommend running a processor at a voltage more than 10 percent above what is listed for your type of processor at the new speed. Even then you're relying on the engineering design overhead, which is not something for the faint of heart. Individuals bent on squeezing out every last iota of performance can boost the voltage, but those who prefer long-term stability should only do so for testing.

This is also the best time to check the power supply in the system you intend to overclock. Speed requires power, and unstable power inevitably leads to unstable processors. Intel processors are hungry beasts, consuming 40-75 watts of power. Your graphics card may take another 50 watts of power. You're consuming 100+ watts of power right there—between half and a third of a typical OEM unit. Multiple or fast drives will take still more power, as will USB and Firewire devices, especially hungry bus-powered ones like scanners or hard drives. I recommend a 350-watt power supply at a minimum in any computer you intend to overclock, and more if you have several SCSI drives or a RAID array.

Cooling and airflow

One of the most important things you'll need is something too often neglected: a potent cooling solution. Overclocking causes circuits to cycle faster, generating more heat. Insufficient cooling can cause permanent heat damage to your processor. Surprisingly, the heat sink and fan unit that Intel ships with its processors is a fairly durable component. However, if you have trouble with stability, consider upgrading to an “enthusiast” unit. Combined with a good silver heat transfer medium, it will keep your system much cooler.

In addition, don’t neglect the airflow in your case. Your processor is still at risk if heat can't escape the case. For overclocking, don't rely on the power supply’s exhaust fan to handle your cooling needs. At the very least, you should have an exhaust fan at the top of the case in addition to the one in your power supply. Adding a second fan at the bottom of the case to draw air in greatly improves the airflow and only costs a few dollars.

Be sure that the cooling solution you choose is specifically designed for your processor. Improperly mounting a heat sink, or using the wrong model, can physically damage your processor. The sites below are excellent resources for determining the optimum heat sink/fan combinations for Intel’s Celeron and P4 chips:

• Intel Celeron Specifications
• Intel Pentium 4 Specifications

Overclocking process

Essentially, overclocking Intel processors consists of increasing the FSB in the BIOS, booting the computer, and then testing for stability. You repeat the process until you identify the maximum stable speed. Changing the FSB is a relatively simple matter of entering the computer’s BIOS setup screen, switching from automatic to manual configuration, and selecting the FSB speed you want. The crudest form of overclocking is available to Celerons; it consists of telling the motherboard the processor is really a Pentium 4 so that it will use the 533-MHz bus, boosting the processor’s speed by 33 percent. Most overclocking motherboards support altering the FSB in 5-MHz increments, while the best ones allow 1-MHz increments.

You'll need to check the PCI/AGP clock multiplier or clock speed (Table A). Many motherboards have the PCI speed locked to match the intended processor’s FSB. Others have multiple PCI/AGP clock multipliers to select from. The best will feed the correct speed to the PCI and AGP devices automatically. You're trying to keep the PCI bus at 33 MHz and the AGP port at 66 MHz—the farther you are from these speeds, the more rigorously you’ll have to test your peripherals.

Table A

Component Bus Multipliers Core FSB Bus Speeds 100 Mhz 133 Mhz Memory* x1 x1 PCI (33 Mhz) x1/3 x1/4 AGP (66 Mhz) x2/3 x1/2 *The memory bus has its own multipliers to the core FSB. DDR doubles the core FSB, while RDRAM quadruples it. Most motherboards will show the core FSB, but others will show the multiplied speed. DDR operates at speeds of 200-333 Mhz depending on grade, while RDRAM operates at 400 Mhz or 533 Mhz with a dual-channel 1066 Mhz speed.

Intel Celeron

The Celeron is Intel’s processor for low-cost PCs. The majority of Celerons are based on Pentium II/Pentium III cores and run at speeds of 1.4 GHz or less. Overclocking these older processors is the same as a Pentium II/III (see my previous overclocking article). However, the Celeron now comes in a Pentium 4 flavor in speeds of 1.7 GHz and 1.8 GHz. Yes, Intel has given the Celeron the heart of its pride and joy, the Pentium 4. But like all Celerons, it has a congenital heart defect: a slow bus and smaller cache.

Celerons use a 400 MHz (4 x 100 MHz) bus and only come with 128 KB of cache. Celeron systems are equipped with PC1600 (2 x 100 MHz) DDR memory and, with the phase-out of the AMD Duron, are the only mass-market processors still using this slow speed. In some ways, this makes the Celeron easier to overclock, since faster PC2100 (2 x 133 MHz) DDR memory is readily available at no significant cost increase. However, if you overclock a Celeron to catch up to its Pentium 4 big brother, the reduced cache will still hamper its performance. In other words, don’t purchase a Celeron with the intent to make it the fastest system on the block because it won't happen.

Intel keeps Celeron clock speeds several hundred megahertz behind the Pentium 4 to maintain the “premium” value of its flagship processor. This also lets Intel use older equipment to make Celeron processors. The up side is that we know the maximum accepted performance of this processor, giving us our maximum “safe” ceiling. The down side is that Pentium 4s rated at 2.0 GHz or faster no longer use the 0.18-micron process currently used to manufacture Celerons. In the case of 1.4-GHz Celerons, that's a 40 percent speed increase, while for the 1.8-GHz Celerons, it's a meager 10 percent boost.

The Celeron currently runs on 1.560 to 1.565v, consuming between 63 and 66 watts of power. Given the clock speed, you can see that this older processor is far more power hungry than the current 0.13-micron Pentium 4s. So, pay careful attention to Celeron cooling solutions and power supplies, since these budget systems often have budget components.

Intel Pentium 4

The latest Pentium 4 is based on a 478-pin socket, is equipped with a 512-KB cache, and operates on a 533-MHz (4 x 133MHz) bus. Any Pentium 4 that uses the 423-pin socket or has 256 KB of cache uses a 400-MHz (4 x 100 MHz) FSB. Pentium 4 systems can be equipped either with DDR or Rambus RDRAM. DDR is far cheaper and performs as well as standard RDRAM. High-end Pentium 4s will be equipped with 1066 MHz RDRAM that consists of two 533-MHz RIMM modules in a dual-channel configuration, outperforming DDR or single-channel RDRAM. Dual-channel DDR motherboards aren't yet available for Pentium 4s, but eventually will be, given their cost savings. Voltages for the 478-pin Pentium 4 range from 1.325v to 1.365v with 60 to 70 watts of power consumed.

Testing for stability

Stability testing is essential to keep problems from cropping up in the future. The exact tests you'll need to perform will vary, depending on your operating system and hardware. The goal is to apply a heavy workload to every aspect of your system to ensure that there are no hidden problems. Hardware testing is easy: Simply use every peripheral attached to the PC. Pay particular attention to CD-Rs and CD-RWs, since changes to the FSB can cause problems with drive controllers. USB and Firewire devices are tolerant of overclocking, but test any must-have device before clearing it for general use.

For PCs with Microsoft operating systems, I recommend using a full system test suite, such as the freely available WinBench. You should test any important programs in a stressful way by loading the largest and most complex files you have available. Linux systems can compile software to test your new CPU speed. Games like Quake 3 and Unreal Tournament are also capable of uncovering many overclocking problems when put into demo mode and left running in loops. If you use a game to test stability, be sure to test the stability of the unmodified machine to establish a baseline. You should be able to run a game in a loop for at least two hours after a reboot without a problem.

WinBench, kernel compilation, and games are also capable of determining the performance increase of your system. WinBench generates a performance value for various aspects of your system, not all of which are affected by processor speed. The kernel compilation process reports the time required to complete; shorter times reflect increased performance. You can set games to report the frame rate, or the rate the system can update the screen. You'll need to run the test on the unmodified machine and record the results to make the comparisons.

The real reason manufacturers limit overclocking options

The idea of running a device beyond standard operating parameters may seem a bit dangerous. And, yes, to some extent there's a risk. However, you should realize that the same production line can create processors of different speeds on the same day. In many cases, the only difference is the stamp and multiplier lock on the chip.

From a financial standpoint, there's often little reason to limit the potential performance of CPUs at the production level. Higher-performing components command a greater price and theoretically don't cost any more to manufacture. All processors are tested to meet certain standards; CPUs that fail at a given rating are retested at a lower speed. While manufacturers don’t detail their performance tests, they know it isn’t wise to rate any device at the maximum capability it handled at manufacture in case it degrades over time and becomes a warranty liability.

It also makes sense for manufacturers to offer a wide range of CPU speeds. The low-end components are close to the nominal manufacturing cost, while performance parts can command as much as a 30 percent profit margin. It might seem contradictory to downgrade a processor and reduce the profit on that part, but if the sales channel becomes flooded with chips running at a particular speed, then component prices drop across the board and reduce overall profit. Thus, due to profit maximizing and engineering safety margins, most processors can only be increased by at least one speed rating (between 66 and 133 MHz), assuming the motherboard supports speed changes that small.

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FINDING ANY WEBSITE'S IP ADRESS USING NOTEPAD

Find IP Address Of any Website Using A Batch File...

Just Copy This code below and paste it in notepad
then save it as "anyname.bat"... thats it.. now run it..


Click On Above Image to Enlarge It...

@title IP Finder - Created By DANNONYMOUS & color 0A
:Coding
@cls
@echo off & break off & @setlocal enabledelayedexpansion
@echo.
@echo ³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³ÉÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ»³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³
@echo ³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³º IP Finder º³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³
@echo ³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³ÈÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍͼ³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³³
@echo.


@set /p Website=Type Website URL Here :
@for /f "tokens=3" %%Z in ('ping %Website%^| find "["') do (
@for /f "tokens=* delims=" %%J in ("%%Z") do (
@set ip=%%J & @set ip=!ip:[=!
@set ip=!ip:]=! & @set ip_Website=!ip!
)
)
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo ºµ²²²²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²µ²²²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²µ²²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²µ²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²µ²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²µ²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²µ²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²²µ²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²²²µ²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²²²²µº & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo ºµ²²²²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²µ²²²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²µ²²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²µ²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²µ²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²µ²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²µ²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²²µ²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²²²µ²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²²²²µº & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo ºµ²²²²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²µ²²²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²µ²²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²µ²²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²µ²²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²µ²²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²µ²²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²²µ²²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²²²µ²º & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo É==========»
@echo º²²²²²²²²²µº & @echo È==========¼
@ping localhost -n 1 -w 30000 > nul
@cls & @echo. & @echo Website Address: %Website%
@echo IP Address: %ip_Website% & @echo. & @echo Press { ENTER } to continue...
@pause > nul
goto Coding

THANKS AND FEEL FREE TO ASK ANYTHING

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