Android is great, but sometimes, the version you get with your phone—whether its vanilla Android or something like Samsung's TouchWiz—leaves a bit to be desired. Here's how to install a new version of Android (or ROM) on your device for an even better Android experience.
What's a ROM?
One of the best things about the openness of the Android platform is that if you're unhappy with the stock OS, you can install one of many modified versions of Android (called ROMs) on your device. A new ROM can bring you the latest version of Android before your manufacturer does, or it can replace your manufacturer-modded version of Android with a clean, stock version. Or, it can take your existing version and just beef it up with awesome new features—it's up to you.
If you're familiar with Linux, it's sort of similar to installing a different Linux distribution. Each version of the OS has a specific goal in mind, and as such differs quite a bit from the others. Which one you choose is dependent on your priorities and how you use the device. You'll need to unlock your bootloader and flash a custom recovery (more info on that here), but once you get the hang of it, it's not too difficult.
There are a lot of different ROMs out there, and if you're looking for a place to start, check out our list of the five most popular. You can also check out this amazing chart which compares a ton of ROMs feature-by-feature, which is a great way to find the right one for you. Even if you have a Nexus phone with pure stock Android, ROMs are a great way to add new features and conveniences to Android.
Step One: Unlock Your Bootloader and Flash a Custom Recovery
First, let's clear up some confusion: Contrary to popular belief, you do not actually need to root your phone to flash a ROM—you just need to unlock your bootloader and flash a custom recovery. However, this process usually goes hand-in-hand with rooting—and most custom ROMs come with root access—so what you think of as "rooting your phone" is probably what you're going to have to do first.
Unfortunately, we can't go through this step in detail here, because it's different for every phone! So, I highly recommend checking out our everything root guide to learn a bit more about what's involved, what all the different terms mean, and what to watch out for. Then, search around sites like XDA Developers for instructions on how to unlock the bootloader of your specific phone, which recovery you should use (usually TWRP or ClockworkMod), and how to flash it.
I also recommend rooting your phone during step one, since it'll make the backup process in step two easier—and save you some hassle along the way. A lot of methods and one-click apps will root your phone anyways, so it might be included in the process. Again, this can vary from phone to phone. (If the instructions require you to flash SuperSU.zip, you can refer to step three of this guide for info on how to do that—ironically, it's just like flashing a ROM).
NOTE: Unlocking your bootloader will most likely wipe your phone, and without root access, you won't be able to back up very much. So, save anything you want to keep on your computer—you will have to set up your phone from scratch just this once before continuing.
When you're done, return here and continue to step two for the rest of the ROMming process.
Step Two: Make a Backup of Your System, Apps, and Data
Now that you've got a custom recovery on your phone, the first thing you should do—before you ever make a big change to your system—is back it up. First, we'll make a Nandroid backup, which is basically a image of your current system. That way, if something goes wrong, you can restore your phone to exactly the way it was before you started tweaking. This will save you a lot of hassle if something goes wonky (which, let's be honest, can happen often). To do this:
Reboot your phone and enter recovery mode. This is a bit different on every phone, but usually involves some permutation of pressing the power and volume buttons at the same time.
Head to the "Backup" or "Nandroid" section of your recovery mode. The default settings should be fine. If given the option, give your backup a name that helps you remember what it is (like "Pre-CyanogenMod Backup 01-17-14"). Confirm your backup and let it run.
Wait for the backup to finish. This may take awhile.
I also recommend making a second type of backup: your apps and settings. If you just unlocked your bootloader and wiped your phone, you can skip this step, but any time you flash a ROM in the future, you'll want to back up your apps first, since you may have to wipe your phone before you flash. With a backup, you can easily restore those apps and data after flashing, making the process a lot simpler. I recommend using Titanium Backup.
This is different from a Nandroid backup because it just backs up the apps themselves, which you can then restore on any ROM you want. Nandroid backups take your entire system as it is, ROM included.
Note that you'll need to be rooted to use Titanium Backup (which is why I recommend you root in step one). To perform a backup in Titanium:
Open Titanium Backup and grant it root permissions if it asks for them. If it experiences any problems with root, it'll tell you right now.
Tap the "Batch" button in the upper right-hand corner (the one that looks like a little checkbox). Scroll down to the "Backup" section and find "Backup All User Apps." Tap the "Run" button. This will back up any apps you've downloaded from the Play Store, and their data. (You can try backing up your system data as well, but I find this usually doesn't work very well).
Wait for it to finish. If you like, you can also sync these to Dropbox as described here, but you don't have to for this process.
This may seem like a lot of unnecessary backups, but trust me: it's going to save you a lot of time in the long run. Now if something goes wrong, you have a nandroid backup to fall back on and don't have to start from scratch. And, when your ROM flashes successfully, you don't have to start re-downloading and setting up all your apps yourself because you can restore them with Titanium.
Step Three: Download and Flash the ROM of Your Choice
Now comes the fun part: flashing your ROM. First, obviously, you need to find the ROM you want. Again, this chart is a good place to start, You may also want to poke around sites like the XDA Developers forums to see what's available for your particular phone.
When you've found a ROM you want to try, download it and save it to your phone. It should come in the form of a fairly large ZIP file, so you'll probably want to be on Wi-Fi to download it. You can either download it directly from your phone, or download it on your computer and transfer it over via USB.
To flash your ROM:
Reboot your phone into Recovery mode, just like we did back when we made our Nandroid backup.
Head to the "Install" or "Install ZIP from SD Card" section of your recovery.
Navigate to the ZIP file you downloaded earlier, and select it from the list to flash it.
Wait for the process to complete; it may take a few minutes.
Depending on your situation (see below), you may also need to wipe your data and/or cache. In TWRP, you'll find this under the "Wipe" section, and in ClockworkMod, you'll need to either choose the "Wipe Data/Factory Reset" option or the "Wipe Cache Partition" option. When you're done, you're free to reboot into your new ROM.
So, when should you wipe your data and cache? Here are a few general guidelines:
If you're flashing a ROM different than the one you're currently running, you should wipe data and cache. Essentially, this performs a factory reset on your phone, and you will lose all your data.
If you're flashing a new version of a ROM you're already running, we recommend wiping your data and cache—but you should be able to get away with just wiping the cache, meaning you get to keep all your apps and settings.
Remember, if you backed everything up with Titanium, then doing a factory reset isn't all that bad, since you can just restore most of it. Keep in mind that even if you're just upgrading your existing ROM, factory resets can be helpful. If you only wipe your cache, note that a few apps may run into issues, but reinstalling them or wiping that app's data usually fixes the problem.
When you reboot, you should be in your shiny new ROM, ready to play! But what? There's no Play Store? Read on for the last step of the process...
Step Four: Download and Flash Google Apps
Because Google's apps are not open source, custom ROMs can't bundle Google's apps—like Gmail, Hangouts, or the Play Store—with their ROMs. That means you'll need to download and flash them separately. Luckily, this is pretty easy to do: just head to this page on RootzWiki to find out which ZIP file you need, download it to your phone, and flash it just like you did the ROM in step three.Gapps Manager is also a great app that'll help you find the right package if you're stuck, and you can download the APK from XDA Developers.
Once you've flashed the latest Google Apps package, you should be all set! You'll have a new ROM with tons of settings to play with, the Play Store to download new apps, and—if you made a backup with Titanium—you can now head into Titanium Backup and restore all your apps and their settings. Enjoy!
How to Mount Android to Windows with Root File System Access
I had to transfer a file to my Android’s SD card and then use a Root file explorer like ES File Explorer to move the file to the system directory and apply the new file permissions. After finishing with the article, I thought that it would have been a lot easier if there was a way to mount Android root path on Windows to write and modify files.
So after some research on forums and discussion threads, I came across a wonderful tool called Android Commander using which we could do the aforementioned task of rooting Android device. So let’s see what some of the basic requirements of the tool are and how to install and use it on Windows.
Some Basic Requirements
Here are some of the basic requirements your phone and computer should fulfill before you can run the application.
Phone Requirements
The phone must be rooted and you must have the latest version of BusyBox installed on it.
You must enable USB debugging on your phone. ICS and above users can find the option in Settings—>Developers Option. For users who are still running on Android 2.2.x and 2.3.x can find the settings under Settings->Applications->Development
You must have a data cable to connect your phone to your computer.
Computer Requirements
You must have the latest ADB drivers installed on your computer.
If you meet all the above requirements you can go ahead and install Android Commander on your computer. The application installs just like any other Windows application and you just need to follow the onscreen instructions to complete the setup.
After install the application, launch it. No need to mount your Android SD card as storage media, the app will read the data using the ADB interface. The app will look similar to an FTP application with the Windows files arranged on the left-pane and the Android file system mounted on the right-pane. The Android file system will be mounted as a root user and you could edit, update or delete any system file from Windows itself.
HOW DO I OVERCLOCK MY OLD INTEL CPU AND MAKE THE BEST OUT OF IT YOU ASK?
Why overclock an Intel PC? The hard-core tech addict answers with the classic “because it's there.” While poetic, this doesn’t do much for the IT professional who needs more justification to risk voiding a manufacturer warranty. However, the best business reason for overclocking is that it can make “obsolete” equipment useful again. This equipment is typically already out of warranty, so the risk is often minimal. For instance, overclocking the low-cost Celeron PCs you bought for backup duty will significantly boost their performance, making them faster and more productive. You can also use overclocking to test the performance of software for future hardware upgrades. To help you take advantage of your older equipment, this Drill Down will focus on why you might want to overclock Intel’s Celeron and P4 processors, and how to do it.
Overclock at your own risk
Manufacturers may or may not honor the warranty on an overclocked CPU. It may also void the warranty on your motherboard and add-in cards. As all systems and components are different, neither TechProGuild nor the author can be held responsible for any damage caused by overclocking your computer. This information is presented for educational purposes only. Perform any modifications to your system at your own risk.
Processor speed factors
Today’s CPUs differ from those of the past in that they include on-board cache memory. Older CPUs, like the original 486 and Pentium, had the majority of their cache memory embedded on the motherboard. Changing the way the CPU operated rarely affected the operation of the cache on the motherboard. Now, however, all processor caches are attached to the CPU. Even if the processor is able to handle a particular speed, unstable cache memory will feed it corrupt data, rendering the CPU useless.
Processor speed is based on two factors. The first is the interface between the motherboard and the Front Side Bus (FSB). The speed of the FSB reflects the amount of data that can be sent between the CPU and the other devices in the computer. On most motherboards, the FSB also determines the speed of the AGP port, the PCI bus, and the ISA bus. In general, the performance of a computer improves as the FSB speed increases.
Intel FSB speed
The FSB on Intel processors currently ranges from 400 MHz for Celerons to 533 MHz for the Pentium 4. These are not straight clock speeds; instead they are quad-clocked speeds. These processors actually transmit data four times per clock cycle, meaning the Celerons are based on a 100-MHz clock (100 MHz x 4 = 400 MHz), while the current Pentium 4 uses a 133-MHz clock (133 x 4 = 533 MHz). There are older Pentium 4s that use the 400-MHz bus, but they are being phased out to help increase performance differences between the new Celerons and the Pentium 4. The other factor controlling a CPU’s speed is the clock multiplier. The clock multiplier defines the ratio of processor speed to the FSB. Prior to the Pentium II, switches on the motherboard set the clock multiplier of virtually all processors. Currently, the clock multiplier is locked at the factory.
Intel to unlock the clock multiplier?
Intel felt it was necessary to lock the clock multiplier at the factory after having problems with ethically challenged vendors remarking the processors with higher speeds and increasing the price. Home users cried foul, but the corporate world that buys the lion’s share of computers doesn’t overclock and didn’t care. Amazingly, at the recent Intel Developers Forum, Intel discussed bringing to market an “enthusiast” grade motherboard that would allow overclocking, its first since it started locking clock multipliers.
Check your motherboard
Before you begin the overclocking process, determine if your motherboard can overclock processors. Look in the CPU installation section in your PC’s manual. If you're lucky, you'll find either a BIOS setup menu or a set of switches or jumpers on the motherboard that control the FSB, voltage, clock, PCI/AGP, and memory bus multipliers. The only real necessity is the FSB adjustment, but without the others, your options decline significantly.
Overclocking will require your motherboard to give orders to the CPU. This is not its normal mode of operation. If you have a computer that came from a major manufacturer like IBM, it's likely that your motherboard won't provide any overclocking abilities. Even among aftermarket and consumer-level boards, overclocking opportunities aren't guaranteed.
Component capabilities
Bear in mind that if you have a processor capable of a 50 percent or more speed increase, it's unlikely that your video card or memory will enjoy running that much faster. A motherboard that can be overclocked will either provide multiple PCI/AGP and memory bus ratios or allow you to lock them at their preferred operating parameters.
Memory speed
Memory speed is often tied to the FSB, but there are boards that will lock the memory bus speed. Don’t do it if you don’t have to. Half the performance increase you may see from overclocking a CPU comes from increasing the speed at which the processor can talk to the memory. High-speed memory abounds in the market for DDR systems, which constitute the majority of computers out there. This is especially true in the case of the Celeron, since a sizeable portion of what makes it a “value” processor is the reduced memory speeds.
Power needs
You'll need to know how much power your processor uses. Just like a motor running at a higher speed, you’ll need to give your CPU more power. This is one of the “risky” aspects of overclocking. Use too much power and you could burn out your processor. A mere shift in the manufacturing process can change the operating voltage of a CPU by a significant amount, so I don't recommend running a processor at a voltage more than 10 percent above what is listed for your type of processor at the new speed. Even then you're relying on the engineering design overhead, which is not something for the faint of heart. Individuals bent on squeezing out every last iota of performance can boost the voltage, but those who prefer long-term stability should only do so for testing.
This is also the best time to check the power supply in the system you intend to overclock. Speed requires power, and unstable power inevitably leads to unstable processors. Intel processors are hungry beasts, consuming 40-75 watts of power. Your graphics card may take another 50 watts of power. You're consuming 100+ watts of power right there—between half and a third of a typical OEM unit. Multiple or fast drives will take still more power, as will USB and Firewire devices, especially hungry bus-powered ones like scanners or hard drives. I recommend a 350-watt power supply at a minimum in any computer you intend to overclock, and more if you have several SCSI drives or a RAID array.
Cooling and airflow
One of the most important things you'll need is something too often neglected: a potent cooling solution. Overclocking causes circuits to cycle faster, generating more heat. Insufficient cooling can cause permanent heat damage to your processor. Surprisingly, the heat sink and fan unit that Intel ships with its processors is a fairly durable component. However, if you have trouble with stability, consider upgrading to an “enthusiast” unit. Combined with a good silver heat transfer medium, it will keep your system much cooler.
In addition, don’t neglect the airflow in your case. Your processor is still at risk if heat can't escape the case. For overclocking, don't rely on the power supply’s exhaust fan to handle your cooling needs. At the very least, you should have an exhaust fan at the top of the case in addition to the one in your power supply. Adding a second fan at the bottom of the case to draw air in greatly improves the airflow and only costs a few dollars.
Be sure that the cooling solution you choose is specifically designed for your processor. Improperly mounting a heat sink, or using the wrong model, can physically damage your processor. The sites below are excellent resources for determining the optimum heat sink/fan combinations for Intel’s Celeron and P4 chips:
Essentially, overclocking Intel processors consists of increasing the FSB in the BIOS, booting the computer, and then testing for stability. You repeat the process until you identify the maximum stable speed. Changing the FSB is a relatively simple matter of entering the computer’s BIOS setup screen, switching from automatic to manual configuration, and selecting the FSB speed you want. The crudest form of overclocking is available to Celerons; it consists of telling the motherboard the processor is really a Pentium 4 so that it will use the 533-MHz bus, boosting the processor’s speed by 33 percent. Most overclocking motherboards support altering the FSB in 5-MHz increments, while the best ones allow 1-MHz increments.
You'll need to check the PCI/AGP clock multiplier or clock speed (Table A). Many motherboards have the PCI speed locked to match the intended processor’s FSB. Others have multiple PCI/AGP clock multipliers to select from. The best will feed the correct speed to the PCI and AGP devices automatically. You're trying to keep the PCI bus at 33 MHz and the AGP port at 66 MHz—the farther you are from these speeds, the more rigorously you’ll have to test your peripherals.
Table A
Component Bus Multipliers
Core FSB
Bus Speeds
100 Mhz
133 Mhz
Memory*
x1
x1
PCI (33 Mhz)
x1/3
x1/4
AGP (66 Mhz)
x2/3
x1/2
*The memory bus has its own multipliers to the core FSB. DDR doubles the core FSB, while RDRAM quadruples it. Most motherboards will show the core FSB, but others will show the multiplied speed. DDR operates at speeds of 200-333 Mhz depending on grade, while RDRAM operates at 400 Mhz or 533 Mhz with a dual-channel 1066 Mhz speed.
Intel Celeron
The Celeron is Intel’s processor for low-cost PCs. The majority of Celerons are based on Pentium II/Pentium III cores and run at speeds of 1.4 GHz or less. Overclocking these older processors is the same as a Pentium II/III (see my previous overclocking article). However, the Celeron now comes in a Pentium 4 flavor in speeds of 1.7 GHz and 1.8 GHz. Yes, Intel has given the Celeron the heart of its pride and joy, the Pentium 4. But like all Celerons, it has a congenital heart defect: a slow bus and smaller cache.
Celerons use a 400 MHz (4 x 100 MHz) bus and only come with 128 KB of cache. Celeron systems are equipped with PC1600 (2 x 100 MHz) DDR memory and, with the phase-out of the AMD Duron, are the only mass-market processors still using this slow speed. In some ways, this makes the Celeron easier to overclock, since faster PC2100 (2 x 133 MHz) DDR memory is readily available at no significant cost increase. However, if you overclock a Celeron to catch up to its Pentium 4 big brother, the reduced cache will still hamper its performance. In other words, don’t purchase a Celeron with the intent to make it the fastest system on the block because it won't happen.
Intel keeps Celeron clock speeds several hundred megahertz behind the Pentium 4 to maintain the “premium” value of its flagship processor. This also lets Intel use older equipment to make Celeron processors. The up side is that we know the maximum accepted performance of this processor, giving us our maximum “safe” ceiling. The down side is that Pentium 4s rated at 2.0 GHz or faster no longer use the 0.18-micron process currently used to manufacture Celerons. In the case of 1.4-GHz Celerons, that's a 40 percent speed increase, while for the 1.8-GHz Celerons, it's a meager 10 percent boost.
The Celeron currently runs on 1.560 to 1.565v, consuming between 63 and 66 watts of power. Given the clock speed, you can see that this older processor is far more power hungry than the current 0.13-micron Pentium 4s. So, pay careful attention to Celeron cooling solutions and power supplies, since these budget systems often have budget components.
Intel Pentium 4
The latest Pentium 4 is based on a 478-pin socket, is equipped with a 512-KB cache, and operates on a 533-MHz (4 x 133MHz) bus. Any Pentium 4 that uses the 423-pin socket or has 256 KB of cache uses a 400-MHz (4 x 100 MHz) FSB. Pentium 4 systems can be equipped either with DDR or Rambus RDRAM. DDR is far cheaper and performs as well as standard RDRAM. High-end Pentium 4s will be equipped with 1066 MHz RDRAM that consists of two 533-MHz RIMM modules in a dual-channel configuration, outperforming DDR or single-channel RDRAM. Dual-channel DDR motherboards aren't yet available for Pentium 4s, but eventually will be, given their cost savings. Voltages for the 478-pin Pentium 4 range from 1.325v to 1.365v with 60 to 70 watts of power consumed.
Testing for stability
Stability testing is essential to keep problems from cropping up in the future. The exact tests you'll need to perform will vary, depending on your operating system and hardware. The goal is to apply a heavy workload to every aspect of your system to ensure that there are no hidden problems. Hardware testing is easy: Simply use every peripheral attached to the PC. Pay particular attention to CD-Rs and CD-RWs, since changes to the FSB can cause problems with drive controllers. USB and Firewire devices are tolerant of overclocking, but test any must-have device before clearing it for general use.
For PCs with Microsoft operating systems, I recommend using a full system test suite, such as the freely available WinBench. You should test any important programs in a stressful way by loading the largest and most complex files you have available. Linux systems can compile software to test your new CPU speed. Games like Quake 3 and Unreal Tournament are also capable of uncovering many overclocking problems when put into demo mode and left running in loops. If you use a game to test stability, be sure to test the stability of the unmodified machine to establish a baseline. You should be able to run a game in a loop for at least two hours after a reboot without a problem.
WinBench, kernel compilation, and games are also capable of determining the performance increase of your system. WinBench generates a performance value for various aspects of your system, not all of which are affected by processor speed. The kernel compilation process reports the time required to complete; shorter times reflect increased performance. You can set games to report the frame rate, or the rate the system can update the screen. You'll need to run the test on the unmodified machine and record the results to make the comparisons.
The real reason manufacturers limit overclocking options
The idea of running a device beyond standard operating parameters may seem a bit dangerous. And, yes, to some extent there's a risk. However, you should realize that the same production line can create processors of different speeds on the same day. In many cases, the only difference is the stamp and multiplier lock on the chip.
From a financial standpoint, there's often little reason to limit the potential performance of CPUs at the production level. Higher-performing components command a greater price and theoretically don't cost any more to manufacture. All processors are tested to meet certain standards; CPUs that fail at a given rating are retested at a lower speed. While manufacturers don’t detail their performance tests, they know it isn’t wise to rate any device at the maximum capability it handled at manufacture in case it degrades over time and becomes a warranty liability.
It also makes sense for manufacturers to offer a wide range of CPU speeds. The low-end components are close to the nominal manufacturing cost, while performance parts can command as much as a 30 percent profit margin. It might seem contradictory to downgrade a processor and reduce the profit on that part, but if the sales channel becomes flooded with chips running at a particular speed, then component prices drop across the board and reduce overall profit. Thus, due to profit maximizing and engineering safety margins, most processors can only be increased by at least one speed rating (between 66 and 133 MHz), assuming the motherboard supports speed changes that small.
Here is a detailed tutorial which contains every possible information that you need to know about using a keylogger
to monitor the activities of a computer. I know most of you are new to
the concept of keylogger program. For some of you, this might be the
first time you’ve heard about the term “keylogger”. So, to give you a
clear picture and make you understand better, I would like to take up
this post in the form of FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions). Here we go:
NOTE: I highly recommend that you read this post completely as every single piece of information is important.
1. What is a Keylogger?
A keylogger (also called as spy
software) is a small program that monitors each and every keystroke a
user types on a specific computer’s keyboard. A keylogger program can be
installed in just a few seconds and once installed, you are only a step
away from getting the target password and other sensitive data.
2. How Keylogger works?
Once the keylogger is installed on a PC,
it starts operating in the background (stealth mode) and captures every
keystroke of the target computer.
Let’s take up a small example: The user on the target computer goes to http://mail.yahoo.com and
types his “username” and the “password” in the respective fields to
login. The keylogger silently records these keystrokes and stores them
in the logs. These logs when opened up shows the captured “username” and “password“.
Along with this, you will also be shown that they were typed in the
Yahoo login page. Thus, the keylogger loads upon every startup, runs in
the background and captures each and every keystroke.
3. How to install the keylogger?
A keylogger can be installed just like any other program. Just follow the screen instructions and you’re done.
4. Do I need any special knowledge to install and use the keylogger?
Absolutely NOT! Anyone with a basic computer knowledge can install and use the keylogger. It requires no special skills.
5. Once I install the keylogger, can the target user come to know about its presence?
No. The target user will never come to
know about the presence of the keylogger on his/her computer. This is
because, once installed, the keylogger will run in total stealth mode.
Unlike other programs, it will never show up in the start-menu, windows
startup, program files, add/remove programs or the task manager. So, the
victim can no way identify its presence on his/her PC.
6. Can I be traced back if I install the keylogger on some other computer?
No, it’s almost impossible to trace back to you for installing the keylogger on other’s PC.
7. Which keylogger is the best?
Today, there exists hundreds of
keyloggers on the market and most of them are no more than a scam. So, I
have personally tested some of the top keyloggers and conclude
SniperSpy as the best one:
SniperSpy – Compatible with Windows XP/Vista/7/8 and Mac
8. How SniperSpy works?
I will try to explain the working of Sniperspy in simple steps:
After you purchase Sniperspy, you’ll be
able to create the installation module using an easy set-up program.
You need to email this module to the remote user as an attachment.
When the remote user runs the
module it’ll get installed silently and monitoring process will begin.
The keystrokes are captured and uploaded to the SniperSpy servers
continuously.
You can login to your Sniperspy account (you get this after purchase) to see the logs which contains the password.
9. I don’t have physical access to the target computer. Can I still use SniperSpy?
Yes you can! SniperSpy supports REMOTE INSTALLATION feature
which allows you to remotely install the program on any PC even if you
have no physical access to it. For remote installation, all you need to
do is just place the module (refer FAQ-8) in a .zip/.rar file and send
it as an attachment to the target email address (for which you need the
password).
10. Can I install SniperSpy on a local computer?
If you need to install to your local
(current) computer instead of your remote computer, then the process is
simple. Simply navigate to the folder in which you saved your module (
Refer FAQ-8). Double-click the module filename to execute it. Nothing
will appear on the screen but the software gets installed silently.
11. What if the antivirus prevent from sending it as an email attachment?
Instead of sending the keylogger as
an email attachment, it is recommended that you place the file
in .ZIP/.RAR format and upload it to www.myflare.com.
After uploading, just send the direct download link (MyFlare allows
hot-linking) to the target via email. Once he downloads the file from
this link and run it, the keylogger will get installed automatically.
12. Why SniperSpy is the best?
SniperSpy supports REMOTE INSTALLATION feature. This feature is not present on most of the keylogger programs.
SniperSpy is fully compatible with Windows 2000/XP/Vista/7/8 and also Mac.
SniperSpy can bypass any Firewall.
SniperSpy is more reliable than any other keylogger
program. You need not rely on your email account to receive the logs.
Instead, you can just log in to your online SniperSpy account to receive
the logs.
SniperSpy captures full-size screenshots of the activities on the target PC.
Records BOTH sides of chats / IMs in Google Talk, Yahoo IM, Windows Live and more.
SniperSpy is more easy to install and requires no extra knowledge.
SniperSpy is recognized by BBC, CNN, CBS and other news networks. Hence, it is reputed and trustworthy.
13. How safe is to use SniperSpy?
Sniperspy is completely safe to
use since all the customer databases remain confidential and private.
SniperSpy do not collect any information from your system other than the
information required for the product’s successful operation. They will
not contact you in any way unless you request assistance.
14. Is my online order Safe and Secure?
Absolutely Yes! All the e-commerce
transactions for SniperSpy is handled by Avangate – they are a trusted
online retailer specializing in digitally delivered products. All your
information remains private and secure. The safety and protection of
your personal information is 100% guaranteed. So, you can place your
order for SniperSpy with no worries of scam!
SniperSpy is completely reliable, safe
and the best keylogger out there. It is really worth the price that you
pay for it. I promise that you cannot get a better keylogger than this.
So, what are you waiting for? Go grab SniperSpy now and expose the truth!
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Posts
.jpg){kind=link}